I've done it several times. I was hoping a polishing step would blend them in more. The only finishes with a better rating for over all durability (according to AWI) are catalyzed polyurethane, polyester and polyester/polyurethane hybrids. Even if you must thin it a bit for good flow-out, you'll probably need only two coats to get an even sheen and adequate build because these finishes generally boast a much higher solids content than nitrocellulose or acrylic lacquers. I am not sure that is the case, but that's what I would expect. M.L. Once the **varnish has dried and cured for a few days (depending on the varnish you use), you can rub out the finish. Because thicker coats require more time … Question Post subject: Buffing out varnish blems. This is a large desk with a couple small blemishes that are sticking out. Buffing can create a glass-smooth finish, even after polyurethane has been applied not-too-well with nothing more than a brush in an ordinary home workshop. I think that it is fairly common practice though I am not sure of that. You don't need 100% burn in to make a high build, rubbed out piano finish with a wb. What makes conversion varnish "good" is a matter of what properties one is looking for in a finish. Let sit 1-2 minutes. Posted: 03 Jan 2011, 14:31 • #1 . Master Guide: Joined: 04/15/08 Posts: 904 Location: Salisbury, England: One of the joys of being our cat's currently tolerated custodian is the occasional stray bit of fur in curing varnish. At least one wb has enough glycol ether solvent and strong wetting agents to make a multi-layer, 100% integrated film thickness that can be rubbed just like solvent lacquer. There are two ways to avoid this problem. Buffing Tools: Norton Abrasives, Yellow Block You can purchase wax in paste, liquid and solid stick forms and there are even a wide range of colors to choose from. Would the effort of polishing mask the milkiness, or highlight it and make it worse? Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, Can the same method be used as for pre-cat lacquers? How To Use Wax Finish on Wood. Buffing spar varnish is not a good idea. I figure you need to let it cure for a few days first, but I wanted to make sure I didn't screw up the finish by trying to rub it out and polish it. I have done it with success. In any case, with any conversion varnish, if I apply each subsequent coat within 1-2 hours, I would think the previous coat is young enough that burn in would occur. The two small spots I worked on with a razor today and they are fairly level and not looking too bad. Better Durability. Others like the stark white, of a non-varnished seam. Rubbing Out By Hand Using Traditional Materials. (Finishing Forum) Hi everybody. Spread with pad. It makes me want to sand it, but that would be … Question Forum Responses It's easy to assume these are "witness lines". How to Buff & Polish Varnish. Apparently they have gotten "fantastic results when rubbed out" as long as it is done within 3 days. Rubbing or Buffing out a Finish: Shake container well. When you want the best and longest lasting finish conversion varnish delivers. Continue section by section. These gylcol ethers can become embedded deep inside the film thickness, and become visible as they slowly work themselves up and out of the coating. However, they also have a new water clear catalyzed product called Ultra Solids and it is a finish that will burn in and is as durable and hard as conversion varnish. However, it's important to learn the difference between witness lines and trapped solvent. Attach yellow buffing pads to the rubber backer using the center washer nut, or replace the original pad with a hook-and-loop aftermarket pad. If you really want a "perfect" finish, then you need to do this: Sand your finish coat of spar varnish … New member here! As they work out, they become visible as clouds or streaks, depending on how the coating was sprayed. Yes, it's possible. I know that's a copout, but for all my effort, I'm not completely happy with the results. The higher/finer grit you use, the easier it will be to achieve a high-gloss finish. I know auto finishes are harder than CV, so why wouldn't CV buff? As you’ll find out, the buffing process removes a certain amount of finish; if there’s not enough, you’ll go through the finish to the bare wood and have to start all over again. I recently bought an Oxnard M-20 (regular mahogany, not sunburst). The catalyst brings about the cross-linking. Spray Presta polish on buffing pad stuff to lubricate the pad. There are three strong reasons for doing so. Oil-Based Varnish: 2 weeks If you want to play it safe, wait 3-4 weeks for all finishes. To rub out scratches on the surface of a wood table, make a paste with mineral oil and pumice (in powder form, which you can grab from a hardware store). The same procedure can be used with modern abrasives, but the general idea is … Can someone clarify whether the burn in occurs or not, since that is pretty key to rubbing out a finish? Mist buffing pad with Presta lubricating material when it gets too dry. From contributor A: There's no need to be hyper careful about not rubbing through the last coat. Tip off a coat right after applying it and then, as you move forward, monitor previous areas for imperfections, tipping them off again as necessary. Has anyone had success power buffing conversion varnish (Sherwin Williams)? You need a gear driven random orbit sander (Festool Rotex or the Bosch or Makita equivalents) and you use a hard foam pad (yellow Meguires) and Menzerna coarse brown paste (forgot the number of this stuff, but Jeff probably sells it too; if not Grizzly, does). The finish is supplied in two parts: the finish itself, and … ColorTone Buffing Compounds remove more scratches than automotive compounds (the industry standard), and were specifically designed and tested to achieve the stunning mirror finishes found on high-end guitars, mandolins, and other musical instruments. Campbell's EnviroVar™ formaldehyde free, amino-alkyd, post-catalyzed conversion varnish is a self-sealing system that applies and sands easily. January 29, 2004, KnowledgeBase: Finishing: General Wood Finishing, KnowledgeBase: Finishing: High Speed Production. Enduro-Var II is a reformulation of our original oil-modified, ambering, water-based topcoat. However, they also have a new water clear catalyzed product called Ultra Solids and it is a finish that will burn in and is as durable and hard as conversion varnish. The process is called “rubbing out”, and serves the purpose of getting rid of minor imperfections in a surface film finish, such as varnish or lacquer, (sometimes) leveling the finished surface, and establishing a consistent sheen. I am at the limit of film thickness with this top and don't dare apply one more coat. The absolute best way is quite unusual. The trick is to “tip off” the wet varnish by lightly dragging the tips of unloaded bristles over it while holding the brush at a steep angle. In industry it is often used on office furniture and kitchen cabinets. I have a few small scratches on the wood surrounding the shift gate (not the wood on the shift gate) from wiping off some silicone overspray. It's very easy to polish something to full gloss and very hard to polish to anything less. You should be able to use a buffing pad on … Follow this up with a foam pad (blue or green work nice, but orange or yellow are fine as well) with Menzerna paste 16. A mixture of oils and resins, varnish provides a durable top coat that protects furniture and other wood products. How to Use Rubbing Compound on Spar Varnish. Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, A tiny spot repair turns into a blending hassle: how to buff a not-quite-glossy sheen into a conversion varnish coating that is at its mil-thickness limit. It's usually found only through specialized distributors or directly from manufacturers. After that it gets too hard (so I was told). The Guider; Autumn Leaves; Faering Cruiser; Madness Proa; Mbuli Proa; Outrigger Junior I use Crystal Varnish, too, and it seems to set-up quicker and with less dust than the others. Greetings to the LTG community. As is the case with virtu­ally all finishes, several thin coats are preferable to fewer thick coats. It is more durable, easy to clean, and has elasticity which helps it stay looking great! The only thing that bugs me is the satin finish. Thanks for the help! I have carved and filled and it's leaving an irregular spot which needs to be blended. It makes me want to sand it, but that would be disastrous unless I can buff the whole top. This leaves a nice satin sheen and is fairly goof-proof, which most other methods aren't. The orbital design of the Rotex cancels these out. I use this after sanding and hand rubbing lacquer and conversion varnish finishes. Forum Responses Partial burn in is enough. Apply a quarter-sized dab of polish to sand one section. When compared to basic home lacquer paint; conversion varnish wins in durability. Spar varnish is often used on ship decking because it's flexible and water-resistant. If you end up with streaks, and they aren't real witness lines, then you can just wait for the solvents to come out, or subject the entire object to warm circulating air. Wood finishing refers to the process of refining or protecting a wooden surface, especially in the production of furniture where typically it represents between 5 and 30% of manufacturing costs.. Finishing is the final step of the manufacturing process that gives wood surfaces desirable characteristics, including enhanced appearance and increased resistance to moisture and other … Skerry Scale Model; Wherry Scale Model; Dory Scale Model; Pro Kits. Buffing is especially valuable for dealing with the nasty side of waterbased urethane – the brush strokes, the bubbles and the less-than-smooth results many people struggle with. Conversion varnish or catalyzed lacquer sprays the same way. Or is there a better finish for a dining table? This removes the high spots, the embedded dust, the laps, etc. Apparently they have gotten "fantastic results when rubbed out" as long as it is done within 3 days. Has anyone had success power buffing conversion varnish (Sherwin Williams)? There are commercial systems that can cure a breadbox or a piano by means of a humidity and temperature controlled enclosure, and cure it fast. Start with a light sanding with 400 grit paper – don’t overdo this and be careful on edges and corners. This will accelerate the removal of the solvents. There is a new product called a "water based conversion varnish" or sometimes "Water based conversion finish". Typically the white seam, as you say, lies below the varnish, but do be very careful.If you want a brilliant white seam with no ambering of the varnish over, then you could think about doing all of your buffing before striping. The overall look is nice, but the combination of the black dye stain under all that CV is giving a milky look to the film. You are trying to knock off any burrs and bumps in the varnish only. Since finishes can differ dramatically from brand to brand and formulation to formulation and environmental conditions also play a role, you’ll want to err on the side of caution giving the … Varnishes of all types are prone to bubbles and different application processes each have their own challenges. You can also subject the dry-to-touch surface to warm, circulating air. The SW people say they have heard it can be done but do not know the method. The reason you need the specialized sander/polisher is if you use a normal rotary polisher, you'll get swirl marks. It's too soft and will make a mess of your varnish job. It is pre-catalyzed so there is no mixing to worry about. It is water borne and low VOC (at least the ones I have seen) but has many of the finish characteristics of a classic Conversion Varnish such as high resistance to chemicals. 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